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Thread: Push-Pull benefits

  1. #91
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    Angling might work.

    what if you offset the drivers by 6 inches and angled them? Start with your drawing. Move the outer drivers, say, 6 inches to the rear. Now take each pair of drivers left and right and angle them so the inner baffles touch just at the ski pass. Adjust the dimensions so the outer drivers are against the rear seat. Like this: / /\ \ The design goal would be to get the inner baffles to touch, and the outer baffles to just touch the edges of the ski pass. Ideally about 90 degrees so that you can mount the inner drivers without the screw driver hitting the opposite baffle.

    What are the ramifications of doing that. possible?

    Shoot, makes the outer drivers impossible to mount. Big negative there.

  2. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
    Angling might work.

    what if you offset the drivers by 6 inches and angled them? Start with your drawing. Move the outer drivers, say, 6 inches to the rear. Now take each pair of drivers left and right and angle them so the inner baffles touch just at the ski pass. Adjust the dimensions so the outer drivers are against the rear seat. Like this: / /\ \ The design goal would be to get the inner baffles to touch, and the outer baffles to just touch the edges of the ski pass. Ideally about 90 degrees so that you can mount the inner drivers without the screw driver hitting the opposite baffle.

    What are the ramifications of doing that. possible?

    Shoot, makes the outer drivers impossible to mount. Big negative there.
    I don't think the trunk width limits will allow that much of an offset, and if I sacrifice depth to do it then it won't clear the top when folding down.

    I plan on mounting the whole thing to the seat back on a baffle that will allow me to seal up against a permanent perimeter baffle. If I make the whole piece removable like I mentioned earlier with the slot for the wrench then I might as well make that baffle removable from the manifold. Then I could remove the outer drivers easily.

    But I don't think it'll be absolutely necessary to make it removable because I think I can still get the side drivers out if I bottom mount them but bolt them on from the top of the baffle. And I can get to those screws by top mounting the inner drivers and removing them when need be. Shouldn't be hard to get at those inner driver's far bolts where the /\ meet.
    Last edited by t3sn4f2; 08-28-2013 at 09:49 PM.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by t3sn4f2 View Post
    True. You should send your HO to Erin and see how it's faired. :poke:
    I would be removing 1/5 of my system.... Technically just a month ago I could have dropped it off and picked it up a week later

  4. #94
    Senior Member cvjoint's Avatar
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    Does anyone know any force canceling push-pull subwoofers built for home theatre? Moving into high end home audio next, watch out!!
    2001 Honda S2000
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  5. #95
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    Martin Logan uses the concept in their "BalancedForce" subs. The Reserve ESL series subs use a three driver triangular variation.

    http://www.martinlogan.com/products/descenti




    Their Statement E2 used it in what looks like dual side firing multi enclosure tower.

    http://pic5.audiogon.com/i/c/f/1306276015.jpg



    I think they also have some new models coming out this year that use it.

  6. #96
    Senior Member cvjoint's Avatar
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    Awesome, I'll keep an eye out for a used one at a decent price.
    2001 Honda S2000
    Head: Pioneer P99 + Samsung Galaxy S3
    Amplifiers: 3,000w+ Zeff class G/H power
    4 way: Aurum Cantus AST2560 Air Motion Transformers, BG Neo8-s Planar transducers, Peerless XLS 10" MAC midbass woofers, Tympany LAT700 x2

  7. #97
    Senior Member cvjoint's Avatar
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    Depth I version is exactly what I want, force canceling, and servo. It's not the biggest one they make but I prefer multiple small ones for room node cancellation. Great tip!
    2001 Honda S2000
    Head: Pioneer P99 + Samsung Galaxy S3
    Amplifiers: 3,000w+ Zeff class G/H power
    4 way: Aurum Cantus AST2560 Air Motion Transformers, BG Neo8-s Planar transducers, Peerless XLS 10" MAC midbass woofers, Tympany LAT700 x2

  8. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by cvjoint View Post
    Depth I version is exactly what I want, force canceling, and servo. It's not the biggest one they make but I prefer multiple small ones for room node cancellation. Great tip!
    The Depth looks like it has a combined Sd equal to a JL 13W7. A couple of those would be awesome in all but the biggest of rooms. :thumbsup:

  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiterabbit View Post
    It just seems to me you are trying to make two incongruous items work. You arent working with the car, you are fighting it. I think there are better choices to be made.
    Agreed. Once you start trying to cram lots of cone area through a much smaller opening, now you are in bandpass territory. ;)

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by durwood View Post
    Agreed. Once you start trying to cram lots of cone area through a much smaller opening, now you are in bandpass territory. ;)
    Should be a moo point (Joey) if I can angle the manifolds in toward the ski pass.

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