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Thread: DIY RCAs

  1. #21
    Tester Extraordinaire ErinH's Avatar
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    right angle connectors FTMFW!

    Wish my neutriks came in that variant.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by TREETOP View Post
    I've used Belden 8723 with good results, it's dual twisted pair and dual shielded so it'll work for left and right in the same wire.
    http://www.amazon.com/Belden-8723-In.../dp/B000KEMC4I

    I've really liked using Neutrik ProFi NF2CB ends, the ground barrel is spring loaded and it makes contact before the center pin. They also have 2 different size strain relief inserts included for using different sized wire. When I bought them they were about $12 each, but they're less expensive now and there's also an updated version that works the same way.
    http://www.amazon.com/Neutrik-NF2C-B.../dp/B0008JIT0Q

    6-channel RCA I made about 10 years ago with 3 lengths of 8723:
    The different sized strain relief is VERY NICE. Luckily my Gepco wire fits perfectly into the hole on my Z5.0 Streetwire ends, but there is no strain relief. It's a seamless look, but without the strain relief it's not the most durable. Of course those were ridiculously cheap so it's kind of a wash. But, it was a bit stressful finding a perfectly sized cable to fit those ends. I ended up with Gepco XB401 cable which is quite expensive, but I found a killer deal on it and paid about as much as I would have for 61801EZ.

    http://www.gepco.com/products/proav_...al_xband_F.htm

    Ultimately, there's nothing like the option of creating your own lengths of cables so you have no excess to loop around somewhere because you needed to buy a 12' cable for 10.1" feet of run.

  3. #23
    Founding Member TREETOP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniVanMan View Post
    Ultimately, there's nothing like the option of creating your own lengths of cables so you have no excess to loop around somewhere because you needed to buy a 12' cable for 10.1" feet of run.
    Agreed.

    Here's another set I made a while ago, with the same Belden wire but using Stinger ends:


    The project box is just a housing for an 8-RCA jack panel, left and right RCAs are joined on the inside to split the signal rather than using a bunch of "Y" adapters. I was using a combination of the head unit's crossovers and the amplifiers' crossovers in this setup to do a 3-way front plus sub plus rears, out of a 3-way active head unit.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErinH View Post
    right angle connectors FTMFW!

    Wish my neutriks came in that variant.
    Hell yes! Those things were life savers but are unfortunately pricey at $4.50 a piece! Four of them were just as much as the 14 other straight nickel plated ends I purchased.
    -Trevor

  5. #25
    Big Daddy Chad's Avatar
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    Gepco comes in a shitload of colors. Even beige.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad View Post
    Gepco comes in a shitload of colors. Even beige.
    Yep, the problem is I couldn't find it anywhere by the foot in anything but black. I even went to a few instrument stores and I couldn't find it. Do you have a good source online? I think markertek had several colors but they were 500 ft minimum purchase.
    -Trevor

  7. #27
    Big Daddy Chad's Avatar
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    I buy it locally as I need it from a local A/V installer.

  8. #28
    I thought most of us car audio guys (and gals) were using UTP interconnects ...

  9. #29
    Big Daddy Chad's Avatar
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    The fools are, UTP is as wrong for unbalanced interconnection as straight Jim Beam in a Camelbak is for bike racing.

    Absolutely NO shielding. and even balanced, for pro audio, shielding is used. Car audio allows this silly thing to live.

  10. #30
    Whatever happened then to the "shieilding only works for freqs > 500 MHz" rule of thumb ... I seem to remember that audio freqs only went out to 20 KHz or so, maybe I just missed something.

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