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Thread: 2010 Dodge Ram - advice please!

  1. #1
    Junior Member chithead's Avatar
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    2010 Dodge Ram - advice please!

    Good morning everyone!

    I'd like to start out by saying my name is Daniel, and I'm an audio addict. I really enjoy listening to the finest reproduction of sound that can be achieved. But I tend to try to do it on the tightest budget possible. I thought this was the reason for my latest dilemma, but am now undecided if this is the case.

    My recent undertaking is the Alpine "upgrade" in the 2009 and up Dodge Rams. Has the 7 speaker output to two front door speakers, two rear cab corner speakers, and three dash speakers. The front door speakers are primarily the bass, the rear cab corners get most of the midrange, and the dash speakers are almost all highs. I have found the Uconnect feature has most of the audio coming through the center dash speaker, but still gets some output to the others as well.

    Tried just swapping out speakers and using caps and inductors to overcome the factory amp boosts and cutoff frequencies. I used test tones to pinpoint the peaks and valleys via my ears, but have recently discovered I should have found this site first and used actual testing equipment. The results were not bad, still better than stock, but definitely left a lot on the table. In my frustration, it was decided to take an easier approach and overcome all of the factory settings.

    I ordered a JL Audio CleanSweep with the Summing Interface, and was dead set on just using all JL. C5 components, 10W6 subwoofer, a 450/5 amp... but now I'm not sure I'd be happy with it either.

    Right now I'm torn between whether the factory amp would be that difficult to work with. My driver selection with caps and inductors idea was definitely poorly researched and executed. Perhaps I could get some testing equipment and then have a better grasp on what drivers would work best. Or would it be better to use the CleanSweep and hope for a fresh playing field to start from.

    Any thoughts or advice?

  2. #2
    Devil's Advocate Adam_MSS's Avatar
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    I think it would be pretty easy to use some signals and directly measure amp outputs to see what you are working with. I'm thinking that with a laptop, soundcard and some DIY test probes you could get just about everything you need in terms of FR info.
    You don't use science to show that you're right, you use science to become right. - R.Munroe

    The important thing in science is not so much to obtain new facts as to discover new ways of thinking about them. - W.L.Bragg



  3. #3
    You know, that's crazy enough, it just might work!

    http://www.mobilesoundscience.com/f2...ory-system-48/

    Having worked with what I think is a similar system architecturally in the Boston Acoustics-equipped Chrysler 300, I have to tell you, that nav and bluetooth had better have improved a lot the past couple of years.

    After unplugging the amp from the databus, the HU output became flat and higher-voltage balanced (probably actually speaker). The only problem was we lost Bluetooth audio and had nor rear signal (fader was in the amp controlled via data)

    The output IIRC has a crossover around 300, lots and lots of EQing, and was a PITA to get to sound good. If I had one of these, I would unplug the amp, turn the key off and wait 5 minutes, and then test the output of the HU for BT and nav audio. If it's there, I would totally jettison that PITA factory amp.

    If you decide you need it, for BT or nav or whatever, then I would MS-8 the sucker and not screw around with anything else.
    "Of course, the laws of science contain no matter and have no energy either and therefore do not exist except in people's minds. It's best to be completely scientific about the whole thing and refuse to believe in either ghosts or the laws of science. That way you're safe. That doesn't leave you very much to believe in, but that's scientific too."

  4. #4
    I should have added, the BT and nav functionality was not good enough (no contacts, for one) for me to keep it - I would have tossed it for a Z-120 or something like that.

    And the amp has a lot of EQ in it - but when it's plugged in, the preamp out doesn't vary with volume, so you can't use it to drive an aftermarket system without losing your OEM volume control and adding a knob somewhere.
    "Of course, the laws of science contain no matter and have no energy either and therefore do not exist except in people's minds. It's best to be completely scientific about the whole thing and refuse to believe in either ghosts or the laws of science. That way you're safe. That doesn't leave you very much to believe in, but that's scientific too."

  5. #5
    Junior Member chithead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VP Electricity View Post
    And the amp has a lot of EQ in it - but when it's plugged in, the preamp out doesn't vary with volume, so you can't use it to drive an aftermarket system without losing your OEM volume control and adding a knob somewhere.
    Ah yes, the lovely side effects of the Chrysler Dodge Jeep "Can-Bus" system.

  6. #6
    Actually, not really. None of the three different "flavors", or in this case physical layers of CAN require that this side effect be present - and there are cars without any CAN bus which have a similar side effect (See BMW E39 DSP).

    It's an implementation thing, not a technology thing. Many cars with each of the three kinds of CAN (fault-tolerant, high-speed, and single-wire CAN) don't impose this kind of BS.
    "Of course, the laws of science contain no matter and have no energy either and therefore do not exist except in people's minds. It's best to be completely scientific about the whole thing and refuse to believe in either ghosts or the laws of science. That way you're safe. That doesn't leave you very much to believe in, but that's scientific too."

  7. #7
    Junior Member chithead's Avatar
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    I do agree with you on it being complete BS. Thinking the stock amplifier would be needed for this application since I'd like to keep the MyGig radio.

    The CleanSweep was shipped today. At least I'll have that as a back up option.

  8. #8
    OK, you still should go back and test as described above.

    And if you decide to go with the OEM amps output, why use a processor that doesn't let you tune it with any manual controls? The BitOne, MS-8, Rockford 360.2, even the AudioControl DQXS, without any auto-tuning at all, is better from a tuning POV than the CS.

    You need to sum, which the CS doesn't have without the external summing module. The devices mentioned do it automatically. I still think the MS-8 is the way to do this.
    "Of course, the laws of science contain no matter and have no energy either and therefore do not exist except in people's minds. It's best to be completely scientific about the whole thing and refuse to believe in either ghosts or the laws of science. That way you're safe. That doesn't leave you very much to believe in, but that's scientific too."

  9. #9
    Junior Member chithead's Avatar
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    The additional summing module was purchased as well as the CleanSweep. The CL441DSP unit was used ($100 shipped) and the CL-SSI summing interface was refurbished ($60 shipped), so for the price I couldn't pass them up.

    The MS-8 is another option I would definitely consider - some of the others listed only appear to have one subwoofer input, and since the truck would technically have two (the front doors) I didn't see how I could use those.

  10. #10
    Devil's Advocate Adam_MSS's Avatar
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    I think the MS-8 is a very attractive solution here. You might even consider using the internal amp on the MS-8 at first and see how it does with some reasonably efficient drivers. Worst case you could add amps later.
    You don't use science to show that you're right, you use science to become right. - R.Munroe

    The important thing in science is not so much to obtain new facts as to discover new ways of thinking about them. - W.L.Bragg



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