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Thread: Why Not Asphalt?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by imjustjason View Post
    I wonder if the stuff I have is actually asphalt based then. I used two layers of it in a vette I had for seven years. I took every stitch of it out before I sold it and I didn't have a mess anywhere near that. In fact it left behind barely any traces of it at all. I had to clean a few places here and there with lacquer thinner but my hand NEVER looked like that.

    I can see how you would be a little sensitive.
    That's low grade butyl on my hands, ironically made by the same company as what you have but resold as a sound deadener. Asphalt should be neater and the adhesive bond is likely to fail after a few years - if it doesn't melt first. If the residue is brown, it's asphalt.

    Two things get mixed up here. People usually want to use asphalt as a vibration damper. It absolutely a terrible choice for that. The other mistake people make is using vibration damper as a barrier. If you are just trying to create a barrier, you don't need the adhesive properties at all on the floor. Just pile it up with the release paper on. It'll probably work better that way and you won't have to worry about what happens in the future.

  2. #12
    Founding Member imjustjason's Avatar
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    I can't remember if the residue was brown or black when I took it out. I'm still pretty confident that it's asphalt based. I never had any problems with it in that vette because the car rarely ever got out of the garage. I put 17,000 miles on it in 7 years. It definitely never saw temperatures high enough to melt it, thus I never had a problem with a smell. The cars that I need to treat now are cars that I will drive till they die so in theory I could use the stuff and not worry about resale.

    In the interest of "doing things right" I think I will steer away from using it.
    Last edited by imjustjason; 10-07-2010 at 01:55 PM. Reason: added it

  3. #13
    Member mellephants's Avatar
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    Informative, thanks!

  4. #14
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    sry to bring up old post. I guess i need to buy the book for the end all perfect solution for improving the interior sq of a vehicle!
    I have just started to research this area myself but I seem to find the same debates but no testing . "x is better than y cause i say so, even wthout ever trying y !!


    THis is my begining: (All Years) Sound Deadening Alternatives - Subaru Forester Owners Forum
    hopes this thread ends up being the the one that exposes the best alternative

    Ok so after more research i have come to the conclusion that i need to read the spec and MSDS sheets of each product. i will respond back in a few days. i have access to just about every sheet for every type of peel and stick used in construction i just need to make copies and bring them home to read. Maybe there is a way to research online(hmmmm) but from my understanding there are many types of Butyl based construction grade peel and stick and many types that are asphalt. I love how on most forums debating the peel and stick vs dynamat - users of the dynamat and other car types say "the other doesnt work, it smells, its asphalt based, it melts in the heat, if you want quality and performance you need to get the car type,it cost more but you get what you pay for, I can get the quality type for only a dollar more per sq ft, so and so is an awesome dude, construction type is tar, tar is messy.... BUT The users of construction type say " it works fine, been in my car for 3 years w no problem yet, only smells for 1 day, i did mine for half the price, 7 years no problem here, i used it on the floors but i wouldnt use it on the doors or underside of roof it will fall off, if you prep the metal it works fine.

    These debates lead me to this= no users of either type has shown in car testing or spec/MSDS sheets. They are more than willing to assume it wont stick to roof or doors without ever trying because of fear of mess. They assume someone they probably have never met is an awesome dude(hmmmmm). There i go assuming Bhorne never met Rick. Rick may not be awesome at all, he may have been awesome only one day in his life. The day Brianhorne8 decided to buy raammat. I also believe that most that have used either type have no clue wich type they used= asphalt, tar, butyl, silicone, rubber.

    Mostly every one in forums including myself seems to type from a large hole between the bum cheeks. Others type using marketing tactics ( hmmmmm). Others are just trying to get honest answers.

    I assume that the original poster was trying to get honest answers. to his ?
    OP= "I've been wanting to reduce rattles and road/tire noise in my FSXT for a while, but I didn't want to shell out an arm and a leg for the usual RAAMmat or Dynamat and Ensolite. So, I perused McMaster-Carr's website and found a nice looking alternative: 1/8" thick adhesive-backed wool felt. 12" x 12" sheets are $5 each, so I bought enough to do my front doors. I will report back when they arrive.

    Has anyone else tried a different sound deadening material??? "
    __________________

    I know I am trying to help get the same answers........ that makes me an awesome dude!

    So i will say this: I work in construction industry, I have access to multiple materials that have a peel and stick application ( not of the peel and stick or seal brand name). I can prove that there are more than 1 brand of butyl, silicone,asphalt,tar, or rubber type of a peel and stick applied material. I can also show that they adhere to metal some with a primer, some without - just peel and apply. I can show that they can be applied vertically and overhead horizontally without falling off in high temps. I do know that most of these construction types cannot be purchased at home depot or lowes in store. Like a said before there are several brands of each construction type of material and I have no idea if they test the same as Raammaat or dynamat in car, but they just might have the same types of material!

    So to all who whine about how yours is this material, and his is this material, mine sticks better than yours, yours smells, and mine don't. I know this type works because I say so , and so and so is awesome, The volume at which I had to turn the music up to drown out noise was essentially cut in half. I ASK will you PLEASE SHOW HOW YOURS IS BETTER ?

    I dont know which is better, but i will show some types that are not aspshalt based and some that are of the construction types of peel and apply. Take a look for yourself:

    http://premierindustrial.net/docs/sp...embrane-r2.pdf
    Air Barrier Membranes - Tremco Commercial Sealants & Waterproofing
    Protecto Wrap - Premium Building Products That Protect
    CCW | Products and Accessories | Self-Adhering Air & Vapor Barriers
    Air and Vapor Barriers | Henry.com

    and closed and open cell foam insulation- take a look :

    Yoga Mats, Exercise Mat, Polyethylene Foam, Yoga Mat, Exercise Mats
    Closed Cell Foam, Padding, Minicel, Polystyrene Foam, Polystyrene Sheet
    Closed Cell and Open Cell Spray Foam Insulation - Spray Foam Information Directory - SprayFoam.com
    Maverick's Bitumen Sheets - DIY Car Soundproofing
    possible cost-effective closed cell foam alternative - DIYMA.com - Scientific Car Audio - Truth in Sound Quality

    I really believe there is an alternative to everything- sometimes cheaper and better. The problem is we dont all have access to it....... or the ambition to find it..... or invent it.......... SO The ones that do- get called "awesome dude" who get to charge what ever price he wants.:
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