Page 2 of 7 FirstFirst 123456 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 64

Thread: I'm over CLD on the doors

  1. #11
    Member cheesehead's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    West Mi.
    Posts
    55
    gotcha! thanks! opinions on NMHC with lead (bb's,sinkers ect.) I have the possibility of getting my hands on some lead tanker seals from work. They are approximately 1"x 1/2"x1/4". I would have to melt these down. But what about some sort of lead ring around my baffle covered in NMHC? Or would it work just as well using the bb method.
    The greatest accomplishment is not in never falling, but in rising again after you fall.-Vince Lombardi

    coming soon to a vehicle near you....http://www.mobilesoundscience.com/signaturepics/sigpic17_1.gif

  2. #12
    gyroscopes and infrared FoxForce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by ErinH View Post
    Can you cut lead with a jigsaw? I was told it's like butter. Never used it myself. I'll take your word for it.

    My goal was to get other suggestions flowing. The guys with experience on these other materials will have to step in and provide thoughts (such as yourself).
    Sorry, I thought you've done it.

    Don't agree with you on using sheet lead as a contrained layer damper. Because that's what you're suggesting: using a non-viscoelastic adhesive (epoxy) to apply lead as weight. A quality butyl based "deadener" with at least 5-6 mil foil will outperform that in damping any day of the week. Damping = converting vibration to heat. Don't personally think lead is a good damper. It is, however, one of the best barrier materials out there due it's very high mass/area^2.

  3. #13
    Founding Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    274
    Quote Originally Posted by FoxForce View Post
    You're down on NHMC, but willing to spend 4x's the money on mass for lead? If the goal is to simply add mass, then why foot the extra cost? 1# of NHMC is less than $2. 1# of 1 lb/sqft thick lead is $8.
    I was a big fan of NHMC...until this summer. For some reason it was fine for me before - "before" being the last 3-4 years - but this summer my doors seem perpetually covered in grease. Any ideas for alternative materials that work similarly but don't turn into an oily mess? (Or suggested means of containing NHMC?)

  4. #14
    Controller AL9000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Jupiter
    Posts
    389
    Real Name
    Alan
    Quote Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post
    I was a big fan of NHMC...until this summer. For some reason it was fine for me before - "before" being the last 3-4 years - but this summer my doors seem perpetually covered in grease. Any ideas for alternative materials that work similarly but don't turn into an oily mess? (Or suggested means of containing NHMC?)
    I posted this stuff on EMSQ. I got it at Lowe's in the electrical department...Ideal Duct Seal


    I'm not saying this is THE answer, but it's a possible solution
    Last edited by AL9000; 08-22-2010 at 01:50 PM.

  5. #15
    gyroscopes and infrared FoxForce's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    155
    Quote Originally Posted by DS-21 View Post
    I was a big fan of NHMC...until this summer. For some reason it was fine for me before - "before" being the last 3-4 years - but this summer my doors seem perpetually covered in grease. Any ideas for alternative materials that work similarly but don't turn into an oily mess? (Or suggested means of containing NHMC?)
    I did a write up on the different types of NHMC and other materials like duct seal compound on EMSQ. Check the Reviews section. They're definitely not all created equal.

  6. #16
    Founding Member capnxtreme's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    104
    I can see coming up with a better solution than CLD for the inner door skin/baffle, but I still can't think of a better tool for the job of deadening the outer door skin.

    Wedging some of Don's butyl rope in between the crash bars and the outer skin seems like a good idea. I've never tried it--could it possibly be effective enough so as not to use any CLD? My gut tells me that you'd still want a couple tiles on there.

    Braces like Geo's seem like a home run if your doors can accommodate them.

    I'm not sure I think the "baffle ring sandwich" is as good of an idea as Erin does. I'm not clear what the "sandwich action" achieves, other than adding mass.

    What I'd like to try would be a few layers of lead around the driver, and then cover it all up in Cascade VB-2.
    Last edited by capnxtreme; 08-22-2010 at 03:25 PM.

  7. #17
    Founding Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    180
    I clicked on this thread hoping to see a thread on building enclosures. I was wrong.

  8. #18
    Tester Extraordinaire ErinH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1,247
    Nah, not the intent. Just a discussion on alternatives for door treatment/solutions.

    We can make a "put 'em in the kicks" thread, though. ;)
    Unfortunately, enclosures are, IME, just as hard/confusing/troublesome if not moreso than attaching a driver to a door. The end benefit is much greater, imo, but it's definately not a build and play solution.

  9. #19
    Founding Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    180
    Quote Originally Posted by ErinH View Post
    Just a discussion on alternatives for door treatment/solutions.
    It IS an alternative that was left out. ;)

    We can make a "put 'em in the kicks" thread, though. ;)
    Unfortunately, enclosures are, IME, just as hard/confusing/troublesome if not moreso than attaching a driver to a door. The end benefit is much greater, imo, but it's definately not a build and play solution.
    Bingo

  10. #20
    Devil's Advocate Adam_MSS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1,578
    Real Name
    Adam
    Building door enclosures takes some time, but I think they are less difficult than trying to make the doors work. The required fabrication skills might be a bit more advanced than applying deadener and bolting on mounting rings, but I'd say if you can build kicks you can build door mounted enclosures.

    The big downside tends to be losing the stock appearance unless you have doors that allow you to fabricate a very low profile enclosure.
    You don't use science to show that you're right, you use science to become right. - R.Munroe

    The important thing in science is not so much to obtain new facts as to discover new ways of thinking about them. - W.L.Bragg



Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •