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Thread: I'm over CLD on the doors

  1. #21
    Founding Member 86mr2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam View Post
    The big downside tends to be losing the stock appearance unless you have doors that allow you to fabricate a very low profile enclosure.
    That is the problem for me. Integrating the enclosure gracefully into the the existing door panel/dash/kickpanel lines is not at all trivial.

  2. #22
    Tester Extraordinaire ErinH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by durwood View Post
    It IS an alternative that was left out. ;)
    I intentionally left it out. I just intended for this thread to be for those who couldn't or didn't want to go the door pod/kicks route. IOW, you're limited to your door for whatever reason... here are some methods.



    When I say the door enclosure route isn't easy, I don't mean to imply that it should be. I just mean that, from a limitations pov, a door is pretty much a door. You can't do a whole lot to change the 'enclosure' volume, so you work with what you've got. But, yea, I understand what you're saying.

  3. #23
    I've cut lead sheet from Cascade with a utility/drywall knife.

    A jigsaw would vaporize too much lead for me... already ate too much paint off the wall as a kid...

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigAl205 View Post
    I posted this stuff on EMSQ. I got it at Lowe's in the electrical department...Ideal Duct Seal


    I'm not saying this is THE answer, but it's a possible solution
    Thanks for that. Just read through the thread. Are you using it?

    Quote Originally Posted by FoxForce View Post
    I did a write up on the different types of NHMC and other materials like duct seal compound on EMSQ. Check the Reviews section. They're definitely not all created equal.
    Thanks! I like your "put it in the oven" idea, too. I'm going to try that with the stuff I had (whatever Hobby Lobby sells in 5lb bricks) and the Duct Seal. Do you think 175deg is representative of how hot car door interiors can get, or should I go higher?

  5. #25
    Controller AL9000's Avatar
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    I've used it as a seal on the metal panels that I fabbed to cover some holes in the sheet metal. I haven't tried it for mass, yet.

  6. #26
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    And I assume the stuff didn't melt into a greasy mess on you. Right?

  7. #27
    Controller AL9000's Avatar
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    I don't know, I've only had it in for a few months and it's behind a panel. It's a butyl/rubber composite and it's made to seal up service entrances (I'm assuming to direct sunlight). I can't find any specifics on it, but here's the MSDS. http://www.idealindustries.com/media..._seal_msds.pdf

  8. #28
    Controller AL9000's Avatar
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    Want me to stick some in the oven real quick? :p

  9. #29
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    A great alternative to your layer after layer of CLD is a quickie layer of CLD in the doors to start the party, then cover the entire outer door in a layer of MLV. It's by far more effective than any other "standard method" of deadening used (such as tons of CLD layering, coating the inside of the door with CCF, etc etc etc)

  10. #30
    gyroscopes and infrared FoxForce's Avatar
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    Beat that dead horse. Beat it!

    A great alternative to layer after layer of CLD is to treat the vibration at it's source: ie, removing the speaker from the damn door, period.

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